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9
Contents
editorial
DON LETTS & SINÉAD O’CONNOR
Trouble of the World
MOEMEDI KEPADISA
A useful study in Democracy
FRED HO
Why Music Must Be Revolutionary – and How It Can Be
LOUIS CHUDE-SOKEI
Walking With Sound: Race and the Prosthetic Ear
Theme Lefifi Tladi
NUNU NGEMA
A Portrait of Ntate Lefifi Victor Tladi
MASELLO MOTANA
Tladi Lefifing!
SHEBA LO
Munti wa Marumo (Return to the source): Lefifi Tladi’s Cultural Contributions to the Struggle 1970-1980
SHANNEN HILL
CREATING CONSCIOUSNESS - Black Art in 1970s South Africa
EUGENE SKEEF
Convergence at the OASIS
LEFIFI TLADI
One More Poem For Brother Dudu Pukwana
DAVE MARKS
Liner Notes
PONE MASHIANGWAKO
My Journey with Mammoths: Motlhabane Mashiangwako and Lefifi Tladi.
GEOFF MPHAKATI & ARYAN KAGANOF
Giant Steps
ES’KIA MPHAHLELE
Renaming South Africa
LERATORATO KUZWAYO
Boitemogelo - Definitions of consciousness draped in Blackness
BRIDGET THOMPSON
Piecing Together Our Humanity and Consciousness, Through Art, Life and Nature: Some thoughts about friendship with the artist, musician and wordsmith: Lefifi Tladi
LEFIFI TLADI with REZA KHOTA & HLUBI VAKALISA
Water Diviner
PALESA MOKWENA
Bra Si and Bra Victor: The Black Consciousness Artists Motlhabane Mashiangwako & Lefifi Tladi
FRÉDÉRIC IRIARTE
Proverbs
ARYAN KAGANOF
Lefifi Tladi – The Score
DAVID LOCKE
Simultaneous Multidimensionality in African Music: Musical Cubism
MORRIS LEGOABE
A Portrait of Motlhabane Simon Mashiangwako, Mamelodi, 1978
ZIM NGQAWANA & LEFIFI TLADI
Duet of the Seraphim
PERFECT HLONGWANE
Voices in the Wilderness: A Trans-Atlantic Conversation with LEFIFI TLADI
LEFIFI TLADI with JOHNNY MBIZO DYANI & THABO MASHISHI
Toro for Bra Geoff
LEKGETHO JAMES MAKOLA
Facebook Post May 24 2023
KOLODI SENONG
Darkness After Light: Portraits of Lefifi Tladi
LEFIFI TLADI
The African Isness of Colour
EUGENE SKEEF
A Portrait of Lefifi Tladi, an Alchemist Illuminating Consciousness, London, 1980s.
galleri
BELKIS AYÓN
intitulada
LIZE VAN ROBBROECK & STELLA VILJOEN
Corpus of Ecstasy: Zanele Muholi at Southern Guild
BADABEAM BADABOOM
Excerpts from the genius cult book of black arts
PETKO IORDANOV
African Wedding (super8mm 9fps)
ANTHONY MUISYO
folk tales and traditions, the algorithm, ancient history and the city of Nairobi
NHLANHLA DHLAMINI
How to Fight the Robot Army and Win?
DZATA: THE INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGICAL CONSCIOUSNESS
A Repository of Thought
borborygmus
AMOGELANG MALEDU
Colonial collections as archival remnants of reclamation and (re)appropriation: reimagining the silenced Isigubu through Gqom
MALAIKA MAHLATSI
Townships were never designed for family recreation
BONGANI TAU
Can I get a witness: sense-less obsessions, brandism, and boundaries by design
SALIM WASHINGTON
The Unveiling
DYLAN VALLEY
Benjamin Jephta: “Born Coloured, Not Born Free”
EUGENE THACKER
Song of Sorrow
STANLEY ELKIN
The Flamenco Dancer
KEVIN BISMARK COBHAM
Plasticizing Frantz and Malcolm. Ventriloquism. Instrumentalization.
ARTURO DESIMONE
What the Devil do they Mean When they Say “Crystal Clear?’’
frictions
DIANA FERRUS
My naam is Februarie/My name is February
AFURAKAN
8 Poems From Poverty Tastes Like Fart! Ramblings, Side Notes, Whatever!
KHULILE NXUMALO & SIHLE NTULI
The Gcwala Sessions
LESEGO RAMPOLOKENG
Gwala Reloaded
ARI SITAS
Jazz, Bass and Land
ZOE BOSHOFF & SABITHA SATCHI
Love, War and Insurrection - A discussion about poetry with Ari Sitas
RICO VERGOTINE
Botmaskop (Afrikaanse Mistress)
RAPHAEL D’ABDON
kings fools and madwomen (after dario fo and janelle monae)
claque
JIJANA
home is where the hut is - Notes for a future essay on Ayanda Sikade’s Umakhulu
MATTHIJS VAN DIJK
Bow Project 2: Bowscapes – In Memory of Jürgen Bräuninger
PATRICK LEE-THORP
A discourse in the language of the Global North based on the colonial history of copyright itself: Veit Erlmann's Lion’s Share.
PERFECT HLONGWANE
A close reading of Siphiwo Mahala’s Can Themba – The Making and Breaking of an Intellectual Tsotsi: A Biography
RITHULI ORLEYN
The Anatomy of Betrayal: Molaodi wa Sekake’s Meditations from the Gutter
NCEBAKAZI MANZI
Captive herds. Erasing Black Slave experience
KARABO KGOLENG
Chwayita Ngamlana’s If I Stay Right Here: a novel of the digital age
WAMUWI MBAO
Nthikeng Mohlele’s The Discovery of Love: a bloodless collection.
RONELDA KAMFER
The Poetry of Victor Wessels: black, brooding black
NATHAN TRANTRAAL
Ons is gevangenes van dit wat ons liefhet: Magmoed Darwiesj gedigte in Afrikaans
ARYAN KAGANOF
Khadija Heeger's Thicker Than Sorrow – a witnessing.
KYLE ALLAN
Zodwa Mtirara’s Thorn of the Rose
ADDAMMS MUTUTA
Third Cinema, World Cinema and Marxism without a single African Author?
ekaya
NDUDUZO MAKHATHINI
Spirituality in Bheki Mseleku’s Music
ESTHER MARIE PAUW
Africa Open Improvising & AMM-All Stars
STEPHANUS MULLER
An interview with Jürgen Bräuninger and Sazi Dlamini
off the record
TSITSI ELLA JAJI
Charlotte Manye Maxeke: Techniques for Trans-Atlantic Vocal Projection
KGOMOTSO RAMUSHU
Skylarks and Skokiaan Queens: Jazz women as figures of dissent
OLIVIER LEDURE
Some Posters and LP Covers of South African JAZZ Designed by South African Artists
HERMAN LATEGAN
Memories of Sea Point
ANDERS HØG HANSEN
Sixto and Buffy: Two Indigenous North American Musical Journeys
REINBERT DE LEEUW
Sehnsucht
RICK WHITAKER
The Killer in Me
feedback
VANGILE GANTSHO
Thursday 8 December 2022
KEV WRIGHT
Monday 2 January 2023
WILLIAM KELLEHER
Wednesday, 1 February 2023
STEFAN MAYAKOVSKY
Thursday 2 March 2023
FACEBOOK FEEDBACK
Facebook
herri_gram FEEDBACK
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the selektah
TENDAYI SITHOLE
Underground: The Sphere of 2SMan
PhD
DIE KOORTJIE UNDERCOMMONS
Inhoudsopgawe
INGE ENGELBRECHT
1. Entering the undercommons
INGE ENGELBRECHT
2. Conserve undercommons
INGE ENGELBRECHT
3. Die Kneg en die Pinksterklong
INGE ENGELBRECHT
4. To be or not to be
INGE ENGELBRECHT
5. Ôs is dai koortjie
INGE ENGELBRECHT
6. Decoding die koortjie
INGE ENGELBRECHT
7. Die Holy of Holies
INGE ENGELBRECHT
8. Epilogue
hotlynx
shopping
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contributors
the back page
DOROTHEE RICHTER
(NON-)THINGS or Why Nostalgia for the Thing is Always Reactionary
ANASTASYA VANINA
War
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    #09
  • borborygmus

BONGANI TAU

Can I get a witness: sense-less obsessions, brandism, and boundaries by design

“Fix your eyes on this sick design.
Yves Saint Laurent briefcase in arm.
These major thugs predate the drugs.
Sold a country for a Swiss bank account.
Not a mathematician can even them odds”

Tumi Molekane (Sotra Cyphers, Jul 8, 2022  Soweto)

Tracing the evolution of design, as disciplines of living from a township perspective, offers me an entry point to witness the patterns of erasure, alienation, division and colonial hierarchy as persistent characteristics that inform multiple design disciplines, including that of fashion. I write this / reflect on the creative praxis of others from a place I call home, from an apartheid-era designed-for-us township, Daveyton. Situated 51 kilometres from the self-proclaimed centre of fashion, Sandton in Johannesburg, South Africa.

Molekane’s critique of forms of government – both the organisations that lead, as well as their leaders – confronts those tasked with (re)imagining society; those situated deep within the legacies of ideas, images, concepts, and tenets that slyly govern expressions of self, identity and place. Qualities decided through logos, labels, categorizations and assigned meanings subordinate township citizens to global others. Wearing designer style from Paris, or organising society within colonial schemas and frameworks, separate those who have (achieved something, could this be style?) from those who have not.

“If we consume the product as a product, we consume its meaning through advertising”.

These are the words of Jean Baudrillard, the radical French cultural theorist who inspired The Matrix. Baudrillard writes at length, how objects are the material reflection of a certain social structure; that objects are the way in which a particular form of society continually reproduces itself. Fashion in particular, offers a collection of ideas that uphold or reflect certain culture(s).

These are my thoughts as I reflect on Dutch-Japanese pianist, visual artist and director Tomoko Mukaiyama’s La Mode which I experienced via YouTube.

Listening to the CD catalogue of the music that accompanied the installation that premiered in October 2016, at the National Taichung Theater in Taiwan, I am swept up in contemplations.

I play the role of a train surfer of a wave created elsewhere using a phenomenon called

‘is’thanana’ from ‘Existenzminimum’ and respecting Tomoko’s work. To me, Tomoko’s work reflects a deviation from labels. La Mode breaks down the boundaries between creator and audience. It seems that Tomoko invites collective wonder. This important form of critique – because WE are ALL society – in part, informs my text, behaving as a mirror for all, instead of a judgement to some.

WhatsApp  conversation as critical text: looking at La Mode.

(Bonga Nazo is a scholar and medical student. He is in conversation with me) [17:08:12] Bonga: Is she diverting the male gaze or the commercial gaze ? [17:08:55] Bonga: “Not all who wander are lost?”
[17:17:43] Me: More commerce.
[17:20:03] Bonga: So she’s using fashion as a critique of consumption (like Baudrillard) or a way of life (religion) ?
[17:21:45] Me: I think a bit of both… the ideas have no intrinsic value outside the system of objects yet people will die for them.
[17:23:11] Bonga: So like how niggas in the hood fight over who is wearing “fake” and who isn’t? And fight and die ?
[17:23:28] Bonga: That’s why Yeezy s1 -3 and her have no logos? [17:24:02] Me: Damn!!!!
[17:24:08] Bonga: Also who is she making the clothes for ? High society or average human? [17:24:46] Me: High society.
[17:25:08] Me: Which is mischievous
[17:25:27] Me: No person from high society would wear this, unless they are post-luxury… [17:25:38] Me: because they have been taught to worship labels.
[17:25:50] Bonga: Yes…it’s a fetishised view of poverty and how fast fashion is consumed. [17:26:29] Bonga: Except that fast fashion must have logos because of its function to aid consumption itself.
[17:26:41] Bonga: As a function of marketing.

How do we design ourselves away from discord, alienation and displacement? That is not an easy question to answer. Perhaps provocations may be useful:

In La Mode Tomoko Mukaiyama blurs the lines of experiencing and being a creator. We need inclusivity. The mechanisation of processes of production has displaced us as humans. Can we invite intersectional collaborations that can influence where designs emerge from and travel to? Can we begin to (re)imagine the academy (as a purveyor of knowledges) and the street (as the purveyor of branded strategies) to be more inclusive?

There is an alienation between where fashion garments are made and where they are consumed. People producing these fashion garments mostly cannot afford them. Then there is an erasure of cultures, practices, and people whose ideas are not credited or acknowledged.

Tomoko Mukaiyama commanded the stage with her piano playing, accompanied by 10 dancers from Spellbound Contemporary Ballet, skillfully choreographed by Dunja Jocic. The stage was adorned with architecturally shaped gauze fabric, a collaborative creation by Toyo Ito and Yoko Ando, blurring the boundaries between performer and spectator. The audience was immersed in the scene, becoming an integral part of the captivating performance. Much of the ostentation reflected on the catwalk helps us think about the commercial gaze through fashion.

The fact is that meaning is assigned to fashioned objects that underpins ideas, images and concepts of western culture, constructing the notion of heritage, via the language of a heritage brand. This heritage though is one-dimensional, promoting hegemony, promoting hierarchies, promoting one identity over others. We stumble across “G-Unit knock-off jerseys in the villages” (and townships) where other forms/ways of fashioning are denied. We forget what we should remember.

Fashion functions as this pernicious idea that we tend to value ‘things’ more than people (or the planet). We value property and ownership. We value boundaries created through class. Here fashion is the signifier. And yet, is it possible for ideas of fashion to craft alternative allegories and rhythms. For Izikhothane – a township(s) material culture that emerged in the early  2010’s – fashion became the means to build communities of practice and camaraderie; a means to fashion belonging through a radical disruption of class barriers. The practice of burning fashion is an act that cannot be used to define the overall Izikhothane culture, but despite being problematic, it does present a protest in the form of a yearning for freedom and self-actualization outside of the imposed constraints of the oppressed.

How do we think about value in a manner that refuses colonial hierarchies? How do we think about value in ways that welcome other genealogies of style or more afrocentric principles? Fashion practitioner, Lesiba Mabitsela identifies his work as “souvenirs of conflict” – as loosely translated – we are those contested bodies and minds affected by the lingering violence of our long past, haunting us in the design of the world to think critically about fashioning ideas of re-existence and resistance. I think about the African Fashion Research Institute’s ‘African Fashion (?)’ course – which shifts the idea of inspiration from the global north towards seeking and activating knowledges from Africa.

The wonder of Barkcloth

My journey with the African Fashion Research Institute (co-founded by Lesiba Mabitsela and Dr Erica de Greef) led me to documenting a recent research residency held in Durban (June 2023), that explored the research story of bark cloth and other applications of folds, drapery and pleats. The Pan-African Research Residency threaded questions tracing the fold’s aesthetic and conceptual forms, where folds fall and how folds re-emerge in contemporary design, artistic practice and archival research.

“In an effort to change perceptions of knowledge makers and knowledge making in fashion, the project brings the performative act of folding that which is folded away, into focus.”

Ugandan born and internationally renowned artist, Sheila Nakitende shared the process of making bark cloth as part of a workshop with fine arts and fashion students from the Durban University of Technology. During the process of working with barkcloth, Nakitende describes her way of working, as working with nature as her collaborator. Here we witness a practice, a knowledge, a cultural exchange un-folding in order to revive ways of making fashion that can help us think about issues of sustainability, about an afrocentric avant-garde, about fashion that is circular. Truly enriching. We are cut from the same cloth of humanity. Beautiful and rare.

Sheila Nakitende, Mother Cloud, 150X192cm, Barkcloth paper

Part of the process of working with bark cloth is to remove the bark from the tree – a Ficus natalensis tree, found along the eastern parts of Africa. After stripping the tree, it is wrapped with banana leaves in order for it to regenerate, a process taking up to three weeks. What is taken from the tree – its bark – is processed to create the bark-cloth. After the cloth is made and used, it can be shredded again, re-purposed, or fed back into nature.

Ultimately, we need to place value in communities as well as value in taking care of our environments. How is fashion as we have come to know it – brands, logos and labels – creating problems affecting people globally? Can this ongoing demand be met without the peril of people and the environment? Can the machine of fashion stop dumping second hand clothes in places that do not consume the clothes in the first place?

Collected Mitumba pieced with @lazarovocha created top and skirt of what was left as finally discarded and modelled by @muda_africa dancers before moving with artist Jan van Esch to Amsterdam.

Can we rather develop afrocentric industries growing in and for our own communities? Can La Mode look to sustainable practices that facilitate symbiotic relationships between humans and the environment – as well as between humans? Can fashion serve as an instrument to unite us, to encourage cultures to meet and exchange ideas/knowledge(s) – to prevent erasure, alienation, division and colonial hierarchy?

If we take away the habitability of our environment, then we are designing our own end? This world is the only one we have.

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MALAIKA MAHLATSI
SALIM WASHINGTON
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